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Build In Fridge - Freezer Kits

Isotherm
Nova Kool

Build In Fridge - Freezer Kits

Build your own cold box!

 These 12 volt to 24 volt fan cooled refrigeration and/ ot freezer kits are suitable for mounting in new or existing ice boxes. There are usually very few boats that can take a ready-made refrigerator or freezer - you just have to make it yourself!  Most of these kits have everything supplied except the box.
Most of our DIY kits include:-

  • Danfoss BD series compressor
  • High efficiency fan cooled condenser
  • Danfoss DC control module 12 or 24 Volts - AC/DC module is optional
  • 2-3.7m line set & re-useable Quick Connects
  • Thermostat
  • Evaporator plate
  • Installation guide & hardware

 

Keep the following in mind:

A top-opening box is usually preferable. The cold air is not leaking out when the box is opened to the same degree as for a front opened fridge. A box can also be designed to fit the shape of the interior and the hull. Select a suitable place on board where the box can be built. It is preferable that the box is built in connection to the galley. Do not build a bigger box than necessary, it is better economy to have a smaller well filled up box than a bigger half full box. To access the box contents from above should be easy. The lid is normally a storage or usable surface area. The lid opening should be not lager than is required to give access to both hands, when loading or taking out the provisions. It is a great help if the area for the box can be completely made free for moulding and building. Avoid building the box close to warm engine room or heater compartment. If that cannot be avoided, extra insulation must be added. Also have in mind that the connection pipe to the compressor is 6 1/2 ft on evaporators and 9 3/4 long on holding plates.  

1. Where do you want to mount the compressor/condensing unit?
Closets, cupboards, bilge, engine room, lazarette, are all good locations .Remember no matter where you mount it, your unit will need ventilation. We recommend 120 sq in of ventilation, ideally 60 coming from the cabin and 60 going back out of the cabin.

2. Do you have access to power close by?
The shorter the run the smaller the wire gauge. Most installations require a minimum of 10 gauge wire, and it gets heavier the further away the unit is from the batteries.

3. How far is the cooler or freezer going to be from the condensing unit?
Remember the standard kit comes with  2.0- 3.7m of refrigerant line between the evaporator and the unit. If you need more it is a special order.

4. Are you building a cooler, a freezer or a spill over (combined fridge and freezer-separated but in one box) ?
A spill over application is when you have one cooler box and you want to make this box part freezer and part cooler. This is done by putting a dividing wall between the cooler and the freezer. It would have a hole at the bottom of the divider to let the cold air from the freezer enter the refrigerator side and a slot at the top of the divider to allow the warm refrigerator air return to the freezer.

5. There are three different ways of cooling the compressor - air cooled (easiest to install and very popular), self pumping (which needs a skin fitting in the boats hull -but no pump), or seawater cooled which is ideal for the tropics.

6. There are two types of plate: Evaporator Plates  or Eutectic holding plates - (the differences are explained under the  individual kits)


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